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The Mons Royale Guide to Hiking in New Zealand

Very official, very unbiased, definitely not just personal opinions from a somewhat qualified local.

So you've heard about our trails, huh. Big beautiful mountains. Beach walks. Bush walks. Native birds, cheeky Kea, snow-capped mountains. We get it, and we're here to help get you hiking in New Zealand. Where to go, what hikes to do, what to pack, and why Merino needs to be in your pack. Naturally, we brought in the big guns for this very professional and very unbiased guide to hiking in New Zealand.

Convenient deus ex machina, it's me. Tamara. Tim to mates. Equal parts humble author, equal parts big guns. Half Kiwi, half Austrian, with the mountain genes of both parents forced into me (thank God) since I was old enough to carry a backpack. Summited my first mountain at 11 years old in purple skinny jeans to impress my crush, kept the mountain addiction, ditched the purple pants for some lightweight Merino, and have been hiking ever since. If that doesn't scream qualified, I don't know what does.

Now that we've covered my credentials, let's get into the very official Mons Royale guide to hiking in New Zealand. Let's go, sugar.

Young Tamara at the Mt Ruapehu crater lake in her purple pants with family

Split image of a hiker walking a mountain trail and a hiker standing on a rocky ridge with a cloud-wrapped peak behind

Where to go when planning a hiking trip to New Zealand

When it comes to terrain, New Zealand is very much two countries connected by a strait. The North Island is a mecca of golden beaches, native bush, rainforests, rolling green hills and the odd volcano in a desert. The Tararua, Ruahine and Kaweka ranges run east to south, with less elevation than their South Island cousins but some beautifully remote trails and backcountry huts worth hiking for.* Tongariro National Park sits almost directly in the middle of the island, and is home to the North Island's biggest peak, Mt Ruapehu. Purple pants peak.

The South Island is the Mons crew's backyard. The Southern Alps are our playground, running the length of the South Island and filled with thousands of snow-capped peaks, glacier valleys, alpine lakes, waterfalls, fjords, and all sorts of wonders of the universe. And where there's mountains, we'll make trails. Wānaka and Queenstown are the obvious base camps to the Alps, sitting at the doorstep of Mt Aspiring National Park.

Tips with Tim? Narrow your trip to either the North or South Island, depending on how much time you have. Less time driving/flying between, more time on the trails.

Close-up portrait of a hiker wearing a patterned beanie with mountains and blue sky behind

What hikes should I do in New Zealand?

So, what are the unmissable, must-do hikes in New Zealand? Here are a few of my favourites. Or at least the ones I can publicly recommend for most hiking abilities and good weather days.

North Island

  • Tongariro Alpine Crossing / Tongariro National Park
    New Zealand's most famous day hike. Volcanic craters, emerald lakes, and stunning volcanic landscapes. This one's a full day on your feet, surrounded by some of the most unique terrain in New Zealand. And, for all you Lord of the Rings fans, it'll take you right past Mount Ngauruhoe. Aka, Mount Doom.

  • The Pinnacles / Coromandel
    Growing up, one of our favourite escapes from the big city was the Pinnacles. A stunning overnight in the heart of the Kauaeranga Valley in the Coromandel, this one's a serviced, 80-bunk hut at the end of a 3hr(ish) walk. You could do it as a day trip, but I'd recommend staying the night and making the extra half hour(ish) hike past the hut to the summit. Preferably at sunset or sunrise. With a bit of whisky. And your mates. It's magic.

  • Pouakai Tarns / Taranaki
    Fraud alert, I haven't actually done this hike myself. Only seen stunning photos, heard rave reviews, and had it on my list for years. It's just around the corner from Mount Taranaki, and offers quite possibly, the best views of the mountain you'll ever see. And you'll see it twice, because it's reflected in a lake. Double trouble.

Split image of a hiker crouched down adjusting gear and hikers making their way through a boulder-filled valley

South Island

  • Roy's Peak / Wānaka
    The postcard hike in Wānaka. Touristy, a bit of a boring walk up (steep farm-track switchbacks the entire way), but boy is it stunning at the top. And that alone makes it worth doing at least once. Tips with Tim? Head up for sunrise on a clear day for a genuinely unforgettable view. You'll wake up at 2am, crawl through the middle of the night while the world sleeps, and by the time you get to the carpark, there'll be 30 cars. It's only marginally less busy than any other time of the day, but it's all worth it when the sun comes up over the peaks and hits the ridgeline over Lake Wānaka.

  • Sentinel Peak / Hāwea
    My personal favourite hike in New Zealand. It's a steep hike and the track disappears more than a few times, but it'll treat you to golden tussock views over both Lake Wānaka and Lake Hāwea, and it's ridiculous. Pack a tent, park up for sunset, look out over Mt Aspiring, and feel ridiculously small and insignificant. It's one for the soul.

  • Routeburn Track via Valley of the Trolls / Fiordland
    The Routeburn is one of the Great Walks of New Zealand, and for good reason. My favourite way to do it is to pack a tent and add on Valley of the Trolls – it couldn't be better named. Turn off at Lake Harris and head through the glistening, boulder-filled valley, make your way up the side of the waterfall at the end of the valley, and pitch up next to Lake Wilson for the night instead of the busy Routeburn Flats hut. Then head back the way you came and continue on to Lake Mackenzie for your next night.

  • Abel Tasman Coast Track / Nelson
    Another Great Walk, with a dream mix of golden beaches, native bush and native wildlife. Throw in a few days kayaking around the coast, and go hunt for some remote beaches a little further off the beaten track. Watch out for the cheeky Weka, they'll steal the chorizo right out of your pack.

Note: Trails close for maintenance, weather, and track works without much notice. Always check the DOC website before you go to make sure your track is open.

Two hikers wading through a river crossing on the trail

Why Merino is the best option for hiking

Merino wool is scientifically proven to outperform polyester and cotton, making it the perfect choice for hiking. Cotton gets sweaty and stays wet. Synthetics wick sweat, but get cold the second you stop moving. Meanwhile, Merino wicks sweat, dries fast, and most importantly, keeps your core temperature regulated both when you're moving and when you stop. Aka, it won't leave you freezing on a ridgeline when you're soaking up the views. But the real winner hiking in Merino wool, is that it doesn't stink. Or it takes a lot longer to stink than any other fabric. It's a game changer, meaning you can wear one layer for the hike, the same in the hut, the same the next day. Go on, drink the Kool Aid.

With my Tim hat on, not my Mons hat? I very genuinely, only hike in Merino. Call me crazy, but I do love not smelling like a teenage boy halfway up the climb, taking one layer for four days, and boy are my temps regulated up here on my high horse. Where I'm also dry. And comfy. And styley.

Back in my Mons hat, the Bella and Temple are our best hiking base layers. Bella is the women's fit, Temple's the men's. It's a sort of spring hybrid base layer, so it works both hiking or as a light layer for ski touring. It has mesh panelling through the back for airflow when you're charging up hill, it has enough stretch and durability for long days on the trail, but it's warm enough to stop the chill when you're soaking up the views at the summit.

Group of hikers standing outside a mountain hut with a red door in the Southern Alps

Split image of a hut bookshelf and a window seat looking out over alpine scenery

What to pack for hiking in NZ

Forecasts in New Zealand are more of a guideline. The weather can change quick, especially in the mountains, so you really need to pack for all conditions. More than a few times I've started a hike on a bluebird day, and finished in sideways rain. It's one of the few situations I'd say don't go with your gut and hope for the best - pack the just-in-case layers anyway. Here's what I'd take.

  • Merino wool hiking base layers, top and bottom
  • Merino t-shirt and shorts
  • Insulating mid layer
  • Waterproof, breathable shell
  • Puffer jacket, beanie and gloves for those cold nights
  • Sturdy hiking boots, broken in before you land
  • Merino socks
  • Sun protection: hat, sunnies, sunscreen (the ozone layer is thinner down here, you burn fast)
  • Navigation: downloaded GPX maps (I use NZ Topo 50), a charged phone and a power bank for backup
  • Food and water, plus a day or two's worth extra
  • First aid kit

Tips with Tim? If you're not sure how many layers to bring, ask yourself: if a surprise storm rolled in, or you injured yourself in the cold, what's the warmest you could make yourself with the layers in your pack? General rule of thumb for all hikes, day trips included.

Which layers should you choose for different times of the year?

  • Summer: A single Merino base layer like the Bella or Temple is usually enough, or a Merino t-shirt like the Zephyr for hot days. The Aero is the Merino wool tee for running mountain trails. Add a wind layer for exposed ridgelines.

  • Shoulder season: Base layers, plus a packable mid layer and a wind/rain jacket. Conditions swing fast at altitude, so build in options you can add or strip off.

  • Winter: Base layers, insulated mid layer, outer layer or puffer jacket, waterproof shell. Winter trips need serious planning, don't head out lightly.

Flat lay of Mons Royale Merino hiking gear including a t-shirt, beanie, base layer top, pants, socks and trail snacks

Handwritten hiking packing list resting on a rock with mountain scenery behind

Tips with Tim

Time for more tips with Tim! Where I answer questions I've put to myself. It's a meta world out there, kids.

  • What's your most underrated hike in New Zealand?

    Thank you for asking. Gotta be Sentinel Peak – it's not a wildly touristy option just yet, nor should it be, given the glorified deer path of a track. But sitting at the summit with the sun setting over the Southern Alps, glistening off the lakes? Life doesn't get much better.

  • Any packing mistakes you see people make on their first NZ hike?

    You'd be surprised how many people you'll see up Roy's Peak wearing jeans. She says, unironically, pretending that little purple hot pants situation never happened. I once saw someone in jandals up the Tongariro Crossing, and another time did a four-day hike with a guy who had only dehydrated meals, with no cooker or water to cook them. So really, it's not being prepared, or underestimating New Zealand conditions. We do hiking differently than the pretty trails and fully functioning, shower-and-hot-meal huts of Europe – our trails are dusty, if they're there, conditions change fast, and you're on your own in the huts. Be overly, over-the-top prepared to take care of yourself in ALL conditions.

  • What are your essentials and your nice-to-haves when hiking?

    Like I said, my hiking layering system is all Merino, so that's my essentials. Plus my tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag, inflatable pillow (boujee), headlight, and cooker. My nice-to-haves are my Kindle, sugar for the track (nothing picks you up better than a Fruit Jube on the trails), and a cheeky flask of Schnapps for the summit. It's the Austrian in me.

  • One piece of advice for someone hiking here for the first time?

    Don't underestimate the trails. Make sure you have a GPX map you can follow, and be prepared to go hunting for orange markers. Make sure people know where you are, you're well equipped, and you've got layers and food for worst-case scenarios. Then just hike everything and everywhere you can, and soak it up, honey. The world is wide and glorious, go make the most of it.

*Full disclosure, 'remote' in New Zealand means really remote. Minimal trail maintenance, backcountry huts that are glorified sheds, and minimal cell service. Always, always be prepared when you're heading into the hills: check the weather, pack enough food for your trip and then some, make sure you've got enough layers for any weather surprises, always carry a PLB, and make sure someone knows where you're going and what to do if you're not back when you should be. Safety is sexy. So sexy.

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